We met in a darkened room in the early morning long before the first streaks of light appeared in the eastern sky. It was the time of day reserved for new visitors to the Mountains and Rivers Monastery in Mount Tremper, N.Y. for a private interview with the roshi. We sat in silence for several minutes. Finally he spoke in a voice that was barely audible. “Why are you here?”
His question was more direct than I expected. After a moment I responded, but my words seemed almost superficial as I heard myself speak them. “I’m seeking the path to enlightenment.” The roshi answered, “There are many paths to enlightenment. Thomas Merton followed one path. Walt Whitman followed another through his poetry. For me, Zen Buddhism is a good way. But there are many paths.”
The roshi didn’t announce when our interview had come to an end. I sensed it, and thanking him I bowed and left the room. That morning during meditation, as dawn was breaking, the faint sound of birds chirping gently intruded on the silence in the zendo. For a moment I reveled in the sound, then, let it go.
But before I could resume my meditation, I heard a woman’s voice sobbing softly. I couldn’t tell whether her sobs were of joy or sadness. My first impulse was to go to her. But I realized how presumptuous that would be; she may have been totally and completely in the moment, fully present. Who was I to presume otherwise? With that, I fell back into a deep meditation.
I left Mount Tremper with more questions than answers. That was how my first experience of the Zen Buddhist monastery began. I returned several times, taking away something different each visit. Most important, I learned that self-discovery is a never-ending process that begins with that first uncertain step on the journey inward.
My visits to Mountains and Rivers monastery now seem to have been in another lifetime. Then, six or seven years ago, I found my way to the Pine Wind Zen Center in Shamong, N.J. and experienced a wonderful sense of coming home after being away for a very long time. It was very different from Mountains and Rivers in some ways, yet much the same in others. The abbot, Seijaku Roshi, boils Zen Buddhism down to its essentials so that it is comprehensible to the Western mindset and applicable to everyday life situations.
But, peel away the outward trappings and the environment at Pine Wind – one of peaceful introspection, tolerance and compassion for all sentient beings – was the same I’d experienced at Mountains and Rivers. It is a gift to be among others, however briefly, whose focus is on being fully present and aware of the Buddha nature in all of us. But being fully present is not as simple as it sounds.
Once, on a train ride from New York City to Philadelphia, I struck up a conversation with the man sitting next to me. He’d recently returned from a trip to the Himalayas and had a portfolio of photographs that he’d taken on his trek. I asked to see them, and he showed me images he’d taken of the people and the land. Technically they were very good. But something was missing that I couldn’t put my finger on.
I remarked that his time in the Himalayas must have been an incredibly spiritual experience. He looked wistful as he said, “I thought it would be.” There was an awkward silence as he put his photographs away. I tried to think of something to say to fill the space, but the only Zen one finds at the mountaintop is the Zen one brings with them. “Perhaps you’ll make another trip,” I suggested. He didn’t answer.